First, You Take a Tenderloin (2024)

One more advantage: It is sometimes sold in vacuum-packed bags, so it can be stored for weeks in the refrigerator. The darn thing is a harried cook's dream.

Not sold yet? Let's talk taste. "It's the most tender cut on the hog," says Karen Boillot, director of retail marketing for the Pork Producers Council. It's the pork version of a beef tenderloin--the same cut with the same characteristics--except for an important detail. Price. As Tom Dougherty, pork buyer for Giant Food, is quick to point out, "Pork tenderloin runs about $5.99 per pound, where beef tenderloin may go as high as $15 or $16 per pound."

The size of the pork tenderloins makes them particularly attractive to smaller families. Tenderloins commonly come two to a package, with each piece weighing 3/4 to 1 pound. The two together are perfect for a family of four.

It is no accident that the tenderloins are packaged this way. Shrinking households and time constraints motivated the pork industry to change the way pork was sold. Once upon a time, in the not-so-distant past, the mythical, typical mom went shopping for a pork roast. The fatty, slow-cooking, bone-in cut included both the pork loin and the tenderloin. The roast was large enough to serve a large family and still have leftovers.

Flash-forward to today's leaner, meaner times. The catchwords in the meat aisle are quick-cooking, lean and boneless.

"The packers decided to bone-out the pork loin and merchandise the sections [the loin and the tenderloin] separately," explains Dougherty. Though bone-in cuts are still available, the trend is toward boneless in all pork categories--shoulder, chops, roasts, cutlets--and the top cut of all is the tenderloin.

"Convenience is pushing the sales," says Mike Salisbury, meat director for Safeway. The only possible trimming required at home is the removal of the silvery skin at the fat end of the loin. But even this is optional. You can open the package, rinse it, pat it dry, sprinkle it with salt and pepper and stick it in the oven. If even this is too hard for you, tenderloins now come marinated in a variety of flavors or pumped with a soaking solution. (See article, Page F6).

Adding flavor yourself is easy. Because the cut is tender, it doesn't need to be marinated for long--in most cases, 30 minutes will do. When cooking the tenderloin, pair it with any ingredients usually associated with pork. Spice rubs and marinades of all types can be used because the dark meat of the tenderloin can stand up to strong flavors. Try fruit, mustards and herb mixtures. The one rule to remember is that this cut cooks quickly. The only guaranteed way to destroy pork tenderloin is to overcook it.

Roasting

Perhaps the easiest method of cooking is roasting. Like most small, tender cuts, the whole tenderloin should be roasted at a high heat for a short period of time: 425 degrees for 20 to 25 minutes, depending on the size of the tenderloin, is a good rule of thumb. The roast should be cooked until it reaches an internal temperature of between 155 and 160 degrees. (A meat thermometer is essential.) Since the cooking time is so short, recipes often recommend browning the tenderloin before roasting. If you have the time, saute the tenderloin until brown on at least two sides, then roast until cooked through. This extra step is well worth it--the roast will both look better and taste better.

Grilling or Broiling

This method follows the same principle as roasting, but here it is unnecessary to brown. The direct heat of the grill or broiler will accomplish this. The whole tenderloin should cook in 20 to 25 minutes. As always, cook until the internal temperature registers between 155 and 160 degrees on a thermometer. The tenderloin can also be cut into kebabs and skewered. Shorten the cooking time correspondingly.

Sauteing

The tenderloin can be cut into medallions or cutlets and sauteed. Because pork needs to be cooked thoroughly, cutlets or scaloppine are easier to work with than thick medallions. Start with 1-inch medallions and then either butterfly or pound gently to form cutlets. The cutlets can be lightly floured or sauteed as is in oil, or a mixture of oil and butter. The cooking time will depend on the thickness of the cutlet.

Stir-frying

Pork tenderloin, like beef tenderloin, is wonderful when cut into thin strips and cooked quickly. The dish doesn't need to be Asian in flavor or inspiration. For example, pork tenderloin may be even better than beef in stroganoff.Use thinly sliced pork tenderloin in any recipe calling for thin-sliced boneless chicken breast, veal or beef tenderloin.

PORK: IT'S ALL IN THE MARINADE

Talk pork tenderloins with meat buyers and you cannot avoid hearing them extol the virtues of the marinated versions. Both Mike Salisbury at Safeway and Tom Dougherty at Giant had the same comment about customers who try the marinated product: "They become repeat buyers." Though it is hard for me to be enthusiastic about cooking and eating meat that has been marinating or soaking for an specified period of time, I decided to see what all the fuss was about.

The products, which are only marginally higher in price, fall into two categories. The first type are tenderloins pumped with a solution to add moisture. "Citric acid, lactic acid and phosphates--there are many different products used," says Karen Boillot, director of retail marketing for the Pork Producers Council. The goal is to make the tenderloin nearly foolproof for the consumer; the moisture-enhanced product will tolerate overcooking. According to Boillot, almost every packer has a "pumped" product. We tried the Smithfield Lean Generation offering and found the meat was almost too moist and a bit salty.

The second category is the marinated group. These products are marinated in a variety of seasonings and may also be pumped with a moisture solution. We tried Italian Style Garlic Herb, Honey Barbecue, Peppered and Teriyaki, all from Smithfield's Tender 'n Easy line. The Honey Barbecue was the least successful, the taste being hard to identify. The Peppered was okay, although fresh pepper would have been much better. The most successful in our tasting were the Italian Style Garlic and Herb and the Teriyaki, though neither were as good as freshly marinated tenderloins.

Bottom line: For convenience these products cannot be beat. I'll continue to do my own marinating, but I cannot deny the appeal of these ready-to-cook products.

TASTY RECIPES FOR 'THE OTHER WHITE MEAT'

Moroccan Spice-Rubbed Pork Tenderloin and Saute of Zucchini and Apples

(4 servings)

Use this method with any seasoning combination that you like. The tenderloins are rubbed with the spice mixture, but not completely coated, so the seasoning is not overpowering. To reinforce the flavor, some of the same spice mixture is used with the vegetables. The result is subtle combination of flavors.

2 pork tenderloins (1 package, a total of 1 1/2 to 2 pounds)

2 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander

3/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

3/4 teaspoon salt, plus additional to taste

About 3 tablespoons olive oil

1 to 2 tablespoons butter

1/2 cup diced onion

2 Granny smith apples, peeled, cored and cut into 1/2- to 3/4-inch cubes

3 small (about 1 pound) zucchini, cut into 1/2- to 3/4-inch cubes

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Remove the tenderloins from their packaging; rinse and pat dry. If desired, remove and discard the silvery skin that covers the meat at the fat end of each tenderloin. Set aside.

Combine the coriander, cumin, cinnamon and salt. Set aside 1 teaspoon of the spice mixture. Rub the remaining mixture over the two tenderloins.

In a large saute pan over medium-high heat, heat enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan. Add the tenderloins and cook until the meat is nicely browned on at least 2 sides. Transfer the tenderloins to a small roasting pan; set aside the saute pan. Place the meat in the preheated oven. Roast until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the tenderloins reads 160 degrees. This should take 20 to 25 minutes, depending on the thickness of the tenderloin.

While the tenderloins cook, use the same saute pan to prepare the zucchini and apples. Return the pan to medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon each of the oil and the butter. When the butter has melted, add the onion and the reserved 1 teaspoon of the spice mixture. Saute until the onion softens, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the apple and zucchini cubes and saute over high heat until the cubes start to brown. Season with salt to taste.

When the tenderloins are done, remove from the oven and let them rest for 5 minutes. Slice on the diagonal and serve over the sauteed zucchini and apple mixture.

Per serving: 431 calories, 56 gm protein, 16 gm carbohydrates, 15 gm fat, 141 mg cholesterol, 5 gm saturated fat, 532 mg sodium, 4 gm dietary fiber

Hot Honey-Glazed Grilled Pork Tenderloin

(4 servings)

Grilling is one of my favorite ways to cook pork tenderloins. The tenderloins are on the grill just long enough to absorb some of the unmistakable barbecue flavor, but not so long that you need to worry about indirect heat and managing the fire.

The seasoning is accomplished in three steps. First a spice rub is applied to the tenderloins. Next the barbecue sauce is used to glaze the cooking meat. And to finish the dish, the reserved warm barbecue sauce is drizzled over the sliced pork. This method works equally well with other cuts of meat, including beef and chicken.

For the spice-rubbed tenderloin:

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon sugar

2 pork tenderloins (1 package, 1 1/2 to 2 pounds total)

About 1 tablespoon vegetable oil

For the barbecue sauce:

3/4 cup ketchup

1/3 cup honey

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper sauce, such as Tabasco

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

Salt to taste

Preheat the grill.

For the spice-rubbed tenderloin: Combine the salt, cayenne, nutmeg, allspice, pepper and sugar. Remove the tenderloins from their packaging; rinse and pat dry. If desired, remove and discard the silvery skin that covers the meat at the fat end of each tenderloin. Sprinkle the spice mixture evenly over the 2 tenderloins, gently rubbing it into the meat. Set aside for 20 to 30 minutes.

For the barbecue sauce: In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, combine all of the ingredients. Bring the mixture to a boil. Immediately remove from the heat. Transfer 1/3 of the sauce to a small bowl to use as a glaze. Keep the remaining sauce warm.

Cook the tenderloins: Lightly brush the tenderloins with the oil and transfer to the preheated grill and cook. After 15 minutes, begin basting with the barbecue sauce reserved as a glaze in the small bowl. If the tenderloins begin to burn, transfer to a cooler part of the grill. Grill for about 10 more minutes, basting occasionally, until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the tenderloins reads 160 degrees.

Set the tenderloins aside to rest for 10 minutes, then cut into 1/4-inch thick slices. Fan out the slices on a platter or on individual serving plates. Drizzle the slices with the reserved warm barbecue sauce and serve.

Per serving: 389 calories, 55 gm protein, 20 gm carbohydrates, 9 gm fat, 133 mg cholesterol, 2 gm saturated fat, 996 mg sodium, trace dietary fiber

Pineapple and Pork Kebabs

(4 servings)

Look no farther than the butcher counter to see evidence of the enduring appeal of kebabs--the cases are full of ready-to-cook versions. Kebabs are so easy though, that there's no reason not to prepare your own. Just marinate the meat cubes to help keep them moist--tender pieces of meat need only about 20 minutes to absorb the flavor. Take care not to pack the meat too tightly on the skewers and then don't overcook. And most of all, don't pair meat that cooks quickly with cubes of vegetables or fruits that cook slowly.

Here, I've used pineapple, which cooks at the same rate as the pork and emerges from the barbecue or broiler nicely charred and wonderfully warm.

3 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard

2 tablespoons white wine or cider vinegar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

6 tablespoons olive oil

2 pork tenderloins (1 package, a total of 1 1/2 to 2 pounds)

1/2 whole pineapple, peeled, cored and cut into 1/2-by-1-by-1-inch pieces

About 12 skewers

Preheat the grill or broiler.

In a large bowl, whisk together the mustard, vinegar, salt, pepper and oil. Remove the pork tenderloins from their packaging; rinse and pat dry. Cut the tenderloins into 1-inch cubes. Add the cubes to the marinade and toss to coat. Set aside to marinate for 20 to 30 minutes.

When ready to cook, thread the pork and pineapple cubes alternately on the skewers, starting and ending with a pork cube. Each skewer should hold about 4 pork cubes and 3 pineapple cubes.

Grill or broil the skewers, turning every few minutes, until the pork is cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes.

Per serving: 379 calories, 55 gm protein, 8 gm carbohydrates, 13 gm fat, 134 mg cholesterol, 3 gm saturated fat, 204 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber

Medallions of Pork Tenderloin With a Sweet-and-Sour Plum Sauce

(4 servings)

The sweet-and-sour flavor in this dish is of the German, not Asian variety. This is my own take on the classic combination of pork, fruit and vinegar. I've chosen to use plums, which are in abundance now and add a wonderful reddish hue to the sauce. The pork is cut and pounded into cutlets that are flavored with ginger. The ginger adds a bit of heat, providing a contrast to the sauce. Not the most traditional combination, but the flavors blend well.

2 pork tenderloins (1 package, a total of 1 1/2 to 2 pounds)

Ground ginger to taste

Salt to taste

1/2 cup flour

About 2 tablespoons butter

About 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 medium (about 6 ounces) onion, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

2 black plums, pitted and cut into 1/4-inch thick slices

1 cup chicken stock or broth

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

Remove the pork tenderloins from their packaging; rinse and pat dry. Cut the tenderloins into slices about 3/4- to 1-inch thick, saving the thin end pieces for some other use. Working with 1 piece at a time, place the medallion with a cut side down on a cutting board. Use the palm of your hand to flatten the medallion until it is between 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch thick. Be careful, the meat is tender and will mash if you use too much pressure. Repeat with the remaining pieces.

Lay the prepared medallions out and sprinkle generously with the ground ginger on both sides, adding salt to taste. Spread the flour out in a shallow bowl or on a small rimmed plate.

Heat a large saute pan over medium-high heat, adding enough oil and butter to generously coat the pan.

In batches, dredge the pork pieces in the flour and add to the hot pan. Take care not to crowd the pan. Cook the pork until brown on both sides and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Add additional oil and butter when needed. Keep the cooked medallions warm while the remaining pork is cooked and the sauce prepared.

When the pork is cooked, use the same pan to prepare the sauce. The bottom will be coated with browned flour. Add additional butter and oil if the pan is dry. Add the onions and cook over medium-high heat until the onions soften and start to turn golden, about 6 minutes. Add the vinegar, scraping up any browned flour from the bottom of the pan. Let the mixture cook for a minute so the vinegar reduces and almost evaporates. Add the plums and saute for 2 minutes, then add the chicken broth and sugar. Let the mixture come to a boil. Cook until the plum slices soften, the sauce takes on a red color and reduces to a sauce-like consistency, 6 to 7 minutes.

Arrange the warm pork medallions on serving plates and top with a generous spoonful of the plum sauce. Serve immediately.

Per serving: 473 calories, 56 gm protein, 16 gm carbohydrates, 19 gm fat, 151 mg cholesterol, 7 gm saturated fat, 220 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber

Pork Stroganoff

(4 to 6 servings)

I don't know if I'll ever return to making stroganoff with beef. The pork tenderloin is so good here and costs half, if not less, than the beef tenderloin.

I've always felt it was sinful to take beef tenderloin and drown it in such an overpowering sauce. Now I won't have too, the pork is so perfect for this preparation. The meat is juicy, tender and improved by the rich and flavorful sauce. Serve this over egg noodles and forget about the calorie counting for one night.

Adapted from a recipe for beef stroganoff in "Please to the Table" by Anya von Bremzen and John Welchman (Workman, 1990).

2 pork tenderloins (1 package, a total of 1 1/2 to 2 pounds)

3 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 cup diced onion

1 pound mushrooms, thinly sliced

Salt to taste

1 tablespoon flour

2/3 cup beef stock or broth low sodium?

1/3 heavy (whipping) cream

1/2 cup sour cream

1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley

Remove the tenderloins from their packaging; rinse and pat dry. If desired, remove and discard the silvery skin that covers the meat at the fat end of each tenderloin. Cut each tenderloin in half. Take each half and cut in half lengthwise. You will have 8 slabs of pork about 6 inches long and 1/2- to 1-inch thick. From these slabs, cut thin slices, about 1/4-inch thick or less.

In a large saute pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-high heat.

Add a portion of the pork slices, being careful not to crowd the pan. Saute until browned and cooked through, about 6 minutes. Transfer the cooked pork to a clean plate and repeat the cooking process with the remaining pork, adding more butter and oil if needed.

When the pork is all cooked, add the onions and the remaining butter and oil to the pan. Cook over medium-high for 3 minutes, then add the mushrooms and salt to taste. Cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid from the mushrooms has evaporated and the mushrooms have begun to brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Add the flour and stir until it has dissolved. Pour in the beef broth and cream and cook until the liquids thicken. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the mustard and sour cream. Stir to combine, then add the cooked pork. Combine and let heat until the pork slices are heated through.

Remove from the heat. Stir in the dill and parsley. Taste and add salt as needed. Serve immediately.

Per serving (based on 4): 584 calories, 61 gm protein, 12 gm carbohydrates, 33 gm fat, 197 mg cholesterol, 16 gm saturated fat, 370 mg sodium, 2 gm dietary fiber