Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School (2024)

Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School (1)

Butter or Crisco? The never-ending debate.Which gives the most height? Which has the most flavor? In my Culinary Chemistry class, we experimented to find out. In this lab exercise, we tested the limits of liquid to gas phase changes. There are so many useful applications in the culinary world that require and benefit from volume changes. All liquids expand in volume when they change phases and transition into a gas. That’s actually what is occurring on the molecular level of biscuit baking. Chefs can find this useful when creating other desserts such as pie crusts and puff pastries.

So, are you ready? Let the comparison begin!

Here’s what we used:

IngredientsAmounts
Butter85 grams
Crisco85 grams
AP flour600 grams
Salt4 grams
Whole milk360 grams
Baking soda20 grams

And here’s how we did it:

  1. Cut butter and Crisco into 1 cm cubes and chill.
  2. Preheat oven to 230°C.
  3. Add 300 grams of flour each into two large mixing bowls. Add 2 grams of salt and 10 grams of baking soda to each bowl.
  4. Add 85 grams of butter to one bowl and 85 grams of Crisco to the other. Distribute evenly throughout the mixtures until there are no big pieces.
  5. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and add 180 grams of milk to each. Mix to combine and until the dough is one even mass; knead sparingly.
  6. Flatten out both doughs to a height of 1.5 cm for cutting. With a round ring cutter, punch out the biscuits.
  7. Cook in the oven for about 8 minutes, or until golden brown.

After the biscuits finished baking, the height and flavor profiles were measured, analyzed, and recorded. Flavor-wise, the Crisco biscuits seemed to be drier and had a pastier flavor profile compared to the butter biscuits. My team members and I also found that the biscuits made with Crisco produced the greatest height. However, other teams found that the biscuits made with butter produced the greatest height. The varying results could be because of over-kneading of the doughs or the doughs not being flattened to exactly 1.5 cm. But according to our professor, Marisa Monaghan, the butter should have been the rising champ.

Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School (2)
Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School (3)

Why, you ask?Well, let’s talk science. Butter contains water. During baking, this water evaporates during its phase change from a liquid to a gas. This causes the gluten strains to stretch in the dough, usually resulting in the greater height. Crisco is the result of hydrogenation. Hydrogenation is the removal of double bonds in fats by addition of hydrogen molecules. Crisco does not have any water incorporation, which ultimately shortens the gluten strands of the dough.

If you aren’t familiar with gluten, here’s a short summary. According to the CIA’s Baking and Pastry book, gluten is the protein component in wheat flour that builds structure and strength in baked goods. It is developed when the proteins glutenin and gliadin are moistened or kneaded. It provides the characteristic elasticity and extensibility of doughs. That being said, typically in the baking process, liquids provide the moisture necessary for the hydration of the dough, which in turn aids the gluten development and rising.

Participating in this biscuit-making lab was so exciting. I previously never used Crisco at all before this experiment, so it was interesting to see exactly what it was capable of doing. The texture reminded me of coconut oil, yet it didn’t have a set distinctive smell. Moving forward, whenever I make biscuits, I know that butter is the way to go. Try this experiment out yourself if you are curious. Crisco may be beneficial for other baking applications, but for biscuit making, butter is the ultimatechampion!

By Majestic Lewis-Bryant

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Majestic Lewis-Bryant

Majestic graduated from the CIA with her associate degree in culinary arts in 2017 and her bachelor’s degree in culinary science in 2019. After completing those programs, she decided to follow her passion and pursue an additional bachelor’s degree in applied food studies. She just completed the Farm-to-Table Concentration.

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Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School (2024)

FAQs

Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School? ›

My team members and I also found that the biscuits made with Crisco produced the greatest height. However, other teams found that the biscuits made with butter produced the greatest height. The varying results could be because of over-kneading of the doughs or the doughs not being flattened to exactly 1.5 cm.

Is it better to use butter or crisco for biscuits? ›

The butter version rises the highest — look at those flaky layers! The shortening biscuit is slightly shorter and a bit drier, too. Butter contains a bit of water, which helps create steam and gives baked goods a boost.

Is it better to use butter or lard in biscuits? ›

The stronger the bond, the tougher the crust and vice versa. Lard also has a higher melting point than butter, melting between 109 and 118° F while butter melts somewhere between 90 and 95° F. A slower render means more air and steam-release, which means more leavening and flakiness.

What is the best fat for making biscuits? ›

High-fat butter, such as Kerrygold Butter, is best. The rich fat from the butter releases water when the biscuits are baking which is what contributes to the beautiful layers and flakiness that we love about biscuits.

What is the best liquid for biscuits? ›

*Substitute buttermilk, light cream, or heavy cream for the whole milk, if you prefer; use enough of whatever liquid you choose to bring the dough together readily, without you having to work it too much. The higher-fat liquid you use, the more tender and richer-tasting your biscuits will be.

Do professional bakers use shortening? ›

Swap one for the other in recipes. If you want to add additional flavor to the dish, lard is the right choice. Shortening is ideal for its neutral flavor, many professional bakers use it for icing.

What are 2 major advantages of using butter instead of shortening? ›

Cookies Made with Butter vs Shortening

The butter cookie provides better flavor and a crispier exterior with browning around edges and a chewy interior; the shortening cookie spreads less, holding its shape better while baking.

Why are my homemade biscuits so dense? ›

When you cut in your fat, you leave it in small pea-sized lumps. Those lumps get coated in flour and melt during baking into layers. If your fats are too warm, the lumps will melt and form a hom*ogeneous dough, resulting in dense, leaden biscuits.

What is the best butter to use for biscuits? ›

Although unsalted butter is the preferred choice for bakers, spreadable butters like Western Star Soft and Spreadable Soft n Less Salt can be used straight from the fridge. For creaming butter and sugar for biscuit and cake doughs it should be used chilled.

Can you add too much butter to biscuits? ›

in this case, it appears that the biscuit structure is just a lot more stable (structurally speaking) when there's less butter. When you get a lot of butter, you're kind of filling your biscuit with holes, which makes it unable to bear its own weight to rise very far.

What is the secret to an excellent biscuit? ›

The secret to the best biscuits is using very cold butter and baking powder. We've made a lot of biscuits, but this easy biscuits recipe is the one we turn to the most (they are so fluffy!). See our easy drop biscuits and cheese drop biscuits for even easier biscuits.

What makes a high quality biscuit? ›

Use flour with low protein content

To make extra tender biscuits, you don't want to develop a lot of gluten. Flours with a higher protein content develop gluten more readily. To get the soft biscuits you're after, Catherine recommends using for an all-purpose flour with a small amount of protein.

Should shortening be cold when making biscuits? ›

Make sure your shortening is cold! This recipe uses Crisco shortening, and I recommend freezing it before adding it to the dough. When the cold shortening hits the heat of the oven, it melts, creating those beautiful flaky layers that we love in a good biscuit.

Are biscuits better made with butter or shortening? ›

Crisco may be beneficial for other baking applications, but for biscuit making, butter is the ultimate champion!

Is buttermilk or heavy cream better for biscuits? ›

Buttermilk also adds a subtle tang. Cream biscuits are made with heavy cream. Cream biscuits are beloved because they're incredibly easy-to-make. But, since cream is much milder than buttermilk, they won't be quite as flavorful (unless you incorporate more spices and seasonings).

What makes biscuits too dry? ›

Why are my biscuits dry and crumbly? Dry and crumbly biscuits are often caused by adding too much flour. Remember, don't scoop and drop your flour – use a spoon to sprinkle the flour into the measuring cup, then level it off with a spatula.

What's better Crisco shortening or butter? ›

50% Less Saturated Fat than Butter*Crisco Shortening: 3.5g saturated fat per tablespoon. Butter: 7g saturated fat per tablespoon. Crisco Shortening contains 12g total fat per serving. Excellent source of ALA Omega-3 fatty acid*Contains 710mg of ALA per serving, which is 44% of the 1.6g Daily Value for ALA.

What does Crisco do for biscuits? ›

Fat (Shortening, Butter, or Bacon Fat) – You can use solid vegetable shortening (Crisco shortening or a similar product), salted butter, or even bacon fat, according to your preference. It's best to use COLD fat. The fat adds moisture to the biscuit dough and helps it to be flaky and flavorful.

What is a substitute for Crisco in biscuits? ›

Butter to the rescue! From biscuits to pie crusts, butter is an easy swap for shortening. In fact, you can use the exact same amount. Baked goods may not turn out quite as flaky, but the rich, buttery flavor will make up for that.

What happens if you use butter instead of shortening? ›

You'll notice these differences if baking with butter instead of shortening. Cookies made with butter or margarine may be softer and spread a little more. Cookies made with butter are usually crispier than chewy cookies made with shortening, but the flavor is richer with butter.

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